If you’ve ever ordered a nursery crate for a new litter, a rescue pup, or even an energetic adult dog who needs a safe space to unwind, you know how quickly those crates can hold onto smells, dirt, and even invisible germs. As someone who’s spent the last 12 years supplying durable, safe nursery crates to breeders, rescue groups, and pet parents across the country, I’ve had more conversations than I can count about cleaning these spaces—ones that aren’t just for looking “tidy” but for keeping the pups inside healthy, too. A lot of people think a quick wipe-down with a paper towel and a generic cleaner is enough, but nursery crates (the ones that get daily use, with puppies chewing, peeing, and napping in them) need a sanitization process that’s tough on bacteria, gentle on materials, and safe for curious noses and paws. Today, I’m walking you through the exact steps we teach our customers, including the sanitization tricks I’ve picked up from vets and regular use over the years. Nursery Crate

First, let’s get one thing straight: sanitization isn’t the same as regular cleaning. When you’re just cleaning a crate, you’re wiping away visible dirt and grime. When you’re sanitizing, you’re killing the harmful bacteria, viruses, and parasites that can live on crate surfaces for days—things like E. coli, parvovirus, and ringworm, all of which are super contagious for puppies. Parvo is a big one here; it can survive on hard surfaces for months, and it’s almost impossible to get rid of once it takes hold in a crate. That’s why, if you’re reusing a crate for a new litter, or if your pup has been sick, regular cleaning won’t cut it. Sanitization is non-negotiable.
Before we jump into the steps, let’s talk about what supplies you’ll need—and more importantly, what to avoid. I’ve seen way too many customers grab harsh chemicals like bleach straight from the bottle, and that’s a mistake. Too much undiluted bleach can eat away at the plastic in crates, discolor metal bars, and leave a residue that’s dangerous if a puppy licks it. Same goes for cleaners with ammonia, which smells like urine to dogs and can actually make them have accidents in the crate. For metal crates, plastic crates, and even the fabric crates we make for smaller pups, I stick to a small list of safe, effective items: a stiff-bristled nylon brush (no metal bristles—they scratch metal or plastic), hot water (the hotter the better, around 140°F or higher, which is hot enough to kill most bacteria), a pH-neutral pet-safe cleaner, a dedicated pet-safe sanitizer (I’ll recommend a couple later), microfiber cloths (they trap dirt better than paper towels), rubber gloves, and a bucket. For crates that have removable parts, like trays or bowls, we’ll cover those specifically, too.
Now, let’s break down the process step by step, starting with pre-cleaning. This is the most skipped step, but it’s critical because if you don’t get rid of the big gunk first, your sanitizer won’t be able to reach the germs hiding under it. First, take everything out of the crate: the bedding, the chew toys, the removable tray, the water or food bowls, even any crate mats you might have. If the bedding is just dirty (not soaked in urine or feces), toss it in the washing machine on a hot cycle with a little bit of pet-safe laundry detergent—no fabric softener, which can leave a slippery residue that’s bad for pups. If it’s really gross, you might need to throw it away and replace it; we sell replacement bedding for our crates, so don’t hesitate to do that, especially if it’s been soiled by a sick pup.
Next, handle the removable parts. The tray at the bottom of most nursery crates is where 90% of the mess ends up, so this is where you start. Dump any solid waste into the toilet first, then take the tray outside (or over your bucket) and use the stiff brush to scrub away any stuck-on dirt. For really tough stains, a little bit of baking soda mixed with water makes a great gentle abrasive—no harsh chemicals needed here. Once the tray is free of gunk, rinse it off with that hot water we talked about. Now, for the metal bars and the crate walls: use your pH-neutral pet-safe cleaner and a microfiber cloth to wipe down every inch, paying extra attention to crevices where dirt and hair get trapped. Again, if there’s stuck-on food or residue, the stiff brush works here too, just be gentle so you don’t scratch the metal.
Now we get to the actual sanitization step, the part that makes this process more than just a good cleaning. This is where a lot of people go wrong, so pay close attention. First, you need to choose the right sanitizer. For metal and plastic crates, two of my go-to options are either a pet-specific accelerated hydrogen peroxide sanitizer (these are available at most pet supply stores, they’re non-toxic, and they work on parvo and other tough germs) or a properly diluted bleach solution. If you use bleach, the mix is non-negotiable: 1/4 cup of bleach per gallon of cool water. Never use warm or hot water with bleach, because that creates toxic fumes. Also, you have to let the bleach solution sit on the surface for at least 10 minutes before rinsing—any less and it doesn’t kill the germs. That dwell time is key, so don’t skip it. For fabric crates (the softer, fabric-sided ones we make for small breeds or traveling pups), stick to the accelerated hydrogen peroxide sanitizer—bleach can fade the fabric and break down the material over time.
Once you’ve applied your sanitizer, let it do its job. Don’t wipe it off right away. Set a timer for 10 minutes (or whatever the label says for your specific sanitizer), and in that time, you can sanitize the other parts: the chew toys, the bowls, even the crate mats. For toys that are hard plastic or rubber, toss them in the dishwasher on the hot cycle, or soak them in your sanitizer solution for 10 minutes. For fabric toys, either toss them in the washing machine on hot or soak them in the sanitizer for that same time. The removable tray you pre-cleaned? You can apply the sanitizer to it now too, while you wait.
After the dwell time, it’s time to rinse everything thoroughly. This is another step that’s easy to skip, but leaving sanitizer residue on a crate is just as bad as using the wrong cleaner. For metal crates, use hot water and a clean microfiber cloth to wipe away every last bit of sanitizer, making sure to get into all the bar crevices. For plastic trays, you can even rinse them in the sink with hot water, just to be extra sure. For fabric crates, use a damp (not soaking) cloth to wipe away the sanitizer, then leave the crate open in a well-ventilated area to air dry completely—no folding it up while it’s even slightly damp, that’s how mold and mildew grow, which is another health risk for pups.
Once everything is dry, you can put the crate back together, but wait—don’t just throw the old bedding back in. If you’re reusing a crate for a new litter, or for a pup that’s been sick, I always recommend adding a fresh layer of bedding, and maybe even a clean crate liner, to give that new pup a safe, clean space. Also, if you have any questions about the materials of your specific crate (whether it’s our heavy-duty metal nursery crate or our soft-sided fabric crate), you can always reach out to us—we’re happy to give specific tips tailored to each of our products.
Let me also add a few extra tips I’ve picked up over the years, because cleaning a nursery crate is an ongoing task, not a one-time thing. If you have a puppy that’s still being house trained, you’ll probably need to do a quick spot clean 2-3 times a day, and a full deep clean every week. If the crate is for an adult dog that only uses it for naps, a deep clean every two weeks is enough. Also, never use the same tools for cleaning your pet’s crate that you use for cleaning human dishes or bathroom surfaces—bacteria can spread, so keep a dedicated brush and cloth for your crates only. And if you’re transporting a crate with a sick pup, always sanitize it before and after every use, even if you think it’s “just a short ride.”
I’ve seen firsthand what happens when people skip proper sanitization. A breeder I worked with a few years ago had a litter of 8 puppies, and because he just did a quick wipe-down with a generic cleaner, parvovirus spread through the whole litter—he lost 3 of them, and it took months to get his facility clean enough to use again. That’s why taking the time to do this right isn’t just about keeping your crate looking good; it’s about protecting the pups that rely on that space.

Whether you’re a seasoned breeder with 20 crates to clean, a rescue group taking in new dogs every week, or a first-time puppy parent getting your nursery crate ready for your new pup, following these steps will keep your crate safe and germ-free. If you have questions specific to our nursery crates, or if you’re looking to restock on replacement parts, bedding, or cleaning supplies, reach out to our team—we’re here to help. We supply crates to customers big and small, and we want every pup using our crates to be happy and healthy.
Beef Cattle Stall References
Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. (2022). Guidelines for environmental cleaning in animal care settings. Retrieved from public health resources for zoonotic disease prevention.
American Veterinary Medical Association. (2021. Safe cleaning and sanitizing practices for pet spaces. Retrieved from AVMA pet health guidelines.
Kilham, B. et al. (2019. Persistence of canine parvovirus in indoor environments. Journal of Veterinary Internal Medicine, 33(4), 1682-1687.
Qingdao Shengxin Metalware Co., Ltd.
Qingdao Shengxin Metalware Co., Ltd. is one of the leading nursery crate manufacturers and suppliers in China, providing the best quality nursery crate with competitive price. Welcome to contact our factory to place orders.
Address: Wangtai Industrial Zone, Hungdao District, Qingdao City, Shandong Province
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